Fitting 101: That’s So Tacky

Today’s post in the fitting 101 series discusses the importance of a properly tacking center gore, and some general trouble shooting tips for gores that aren’t so tacky.

Let me start with some visual aids 🙂

A properly tacking gore looks like this: 

38JJ

Completely flat against the chest

38K

 

An improperly tacking gore looks like this:

IMG_2173

Does not rest between the breasts

 

IMG_2171

So why should the center gore tack against your sternum? Although there are some companies like Braologie that insist that the center gore tacking is not necessary, I believe that in order to have the best fit and support, your center gore should tack between your breasts.

The benefits of a tacky gore:

  • If your gore is tacking, that generally means you have the right cup size, so your wires are not sitting on breast tissue, which can be painful otherwise
  • When it sits flat on your sternum, you will have clear separation between your boobs. Yay for two boobs instead of 1. or 4. (or more, really)
  • If your gore is properly tacking, it won’t be visible under your clothing
  • You’ll get the best lift out of a bra with wires that tack against your sternum and ribcage properly

Admittedly, I think that a less tacky gore is the first compromise many women make when trying to find a good fit. The reality is that even in your proper size, the center gore may not always tack to your sternum….but do not fret….here’s some simple trouble shooting:

Reasons your gore may not be tacky:

  • You’ve done the swoop and scoop, and now you not only have double boob, but your gore isn’t sitting flat between your breasts. Time to go up 1-2 cup sizes until the double boob goes away, and your gore is tacking
  • You know your cup size is right, but the gore still isn’t tacking…. Is your band too big? Sometimes if the band is too big, there is not enough tension on the wires. The right balance of cup size and band size is important in ensuring a properly tacking center gore
  • I’ve got the right cup size AND band size, and the gore still isn’t sitting flat! Is the gore narrower or wider than the space that you have naturally between your boobs? If the gore of the bra is wider than you have space between your boobs, it most likely will not sit flat. Also, you may have troubles settling your boobs into a bra if the gore is narrower than the natural space between your boobs. Measure the space between your boobs and measure the gore on your bras. Are they the same size?
  • The gore is too tall or too short for your boobs. I know that for me, if a gore is too tall, it won’t tack, no matter what size I try. You’ll have to try a lot of different bras to really get a feel for the ideal height of the gore for your body, but it’s worth it to figure it out.
  • If you’ve done all of the above and your gore still isn’t tacking, you may need to try a different cut of bra. For example, if you always have problems with your gores being too tall in full cup bras, why not try a balconette, or a plunge?

Side bar:

***If your gore is not tacking, do this to find out if you have the right cup size: With the bra on, use your fingers and push the gore flat against your sternum. If you have double boob anywhere – including under your arms, go up in cup size until the gore sits flat. If you do not have double boob when you do this, try and determine if the wires are too wide, if the gore is too tall, or if it is an issue of bra shape.**

As always, if you have any questions/comments/or suggestions, please leave them in the comments below

-Nicole

2 thoughts on “Fitting 101: That’s So Tacky

  1. What if you know this but bras never tack nomatter what size or shape of the bras. Can you give me some advice as to what to do in this situation?
    Thanks

  2. I’ve found that for me, weak underwires can cause a gore to not tack. I used to love Fantasie side support bras, but had to give them up because the underwires were not strong enough for my heavy breasts, and so the weight of my boobs would pull the gore away from my chest.

    It’s why almost all the bras I wear now are Panache, they have stronger wires.

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